Friday, April 25, 2014

A Silver Hair Flashback Friday - Charlotte, NC

So in the last few days I've been going through my computer trying to see what survived a crash I had a few years ago, if anything, and I found these pictures from Charlotte's Passport to Fashion from 2011. This show was done with the Re Salon and Med Spa team and I don't know who did what so I can't give photo credit, but they are all amazing stylists and makeup artists. These pictures were taken shortly before I dunked my little Panasonic digital camera in the Atlantic and she was lost to me for forever. It only I hadn't been so intent on taking that crab's picture.... but I digress.

The first few pictures were for a fashion designer who, *slaps forehead,* I cannot remember the name of. If any of you out there know who it is, please comment below. Her pieces where these amazing, super-chunky sweaters and overlay pieces. Most of them were made from really rough pieces of wool, so they had tremendous texture. With most of the clothing colors being shades of grey and muted neutrals, the designer wanted to keep the models' pallet similar. And while I don't remember the exact directions we were given, I believe it had something to do with Victorian style, silver hair, whited out faces, and some sort of mask across the eyes... and some sort of braid. The idea was to sort of make the models look like weathered, old china dolls. Anyway, some of the girls had updos with fish-tail braids coming across the front, and others who had shorter hair were styled as similar as possible. I can't tell you how many cans of silver and white hair spray we went through. It sort of weighed the hair down, but ended up having a cool look on the runway. 

For makeup I think the girls faces were dabbed with a bit of Ben Nye Clown White and dusted with a white powder. Then a rosy cheek and lip were added, and then the mask. Originally the mask was supposed to be solid, but that had a little too much of a Batman look. The resulting mask was applied by stippling on mascara with a mascara wand. 

There was also one model that was the main model who had a similar look but different tones. Her hair was gold and her makeup was gold. She was MIA most of the night because she was in another show, so I didn't get her picture. But I found one on the show's facebook page. 

temporary silver hair
This model had a really short cut so we added some extra wool pieces.

updo with fish tail braid
Here are some of the pieces I was talking about

temporary silver hair dye
The girl with the curly hair had really cool texture in her updo.

updo with fishtail braid
Her makeup looked killer. Very black swan.

fish tail braids in hair
little scarf/BIG SCARF

temporary gold hair color on model
Here's our golden girl on the catwalk. She was fierce and had legs for days.

The next few pictures are of a model for a different show that same night. The category for the show was a dress made out of recycled materials. Our salon made this dress out of old men's neck ties. We originally tried to make a dress out of VHS tape, but I'm pretty sure we would have gone absolutely insane if we had tried to finish that. Unfortunately I don't have pictures of the full dress. It had a really awesome train. We did not win the competition (I think we were actually supposed to use tin foil or something to be considered "recycled"), but the head judge did ask if she could wear our dress to next years show.

carmel and copper highlights in curly dark hair
This is our model getting all bronzed up. A few days before the show I added some copper and caramel highlights in a triangle section around her face with Subtil Meche. She had such beautiful natural texture so we had to take larger sections to get the color to show.

fashion model with curly hair
Here she is getting laced up. The woman standing behind is the lovely Cathie who sewed our dress with her awesome antique Singer sewing machine. 

fashion model with curly dark hair
Her jewelry was made from old watch parts.  

Wednesday, April 23, 2014

Precision Blonde Highlights - Charlotte, NC

This is what I call "kitchen hair." Whenever I visit my mom in Florida she's usually in dire need of a color refresher. She is pretty rough on her hair (heat-styling, teasing, TONS of product), so in addition to needing color, it also looks very dull. Here is what I do to get her all fixed up.

My mom is naturally a level 6 with about 30% grey, mostly around her face. I had not colored her hair since early January so she had quite a bit of re-growth. In the "before" picture below I had already touched up her base color so you won't see the gray that I'm talking about. For her base color I use Majirel permanent color in 8.01, but I actually use 9 volume. My mom's hair is fine and the 9 volume, in combination with the heat from her scalp, gives me enough lift and deposit to achieve a neutral level 7 and cover her gray.

Normally in the salon I would have done her base color and highlights at the same time, because most people don't have the time to do one and then the other; with her I did her base color about two days before. I did a full foil on her using 8 sections. The smaller your sections the easier it is to control your foil and keep it close to the scalp. Some times I'll do as many as 11 sections if someone has thicker hair or more hair surface on the scalp. (If you were trained in Aveda you know the 11 section foil =) ). I also staged my lightener. In the salon I probably would have used 10, 20, and 30 volume. But I only had 10 and 20 at the house so I mixed them to do a "15" in the middle and just let it process a bit longer. I know I said my mom's hair was fine textured, but it takes a surprisingly long time to lift.

After processing and rinsing the highlights we did a gloss with DIA Light 10.32 for about five minutes to balance the porosity, give shine, and give us that nice golden-wheat blonde. Even though I do not usually cut hair, I shaped up her haircut a bit because she had been cutting it herself. =)

Blond Hair Before Foiling Highlights
Back view of blonde hair before highlights. Look at that regrowth!
Blonde Hair Before Highlights
Side view of blonde hair before highlighting. 
Precision Blonde Foils Highlights
Blonde highlights in neat foils. Keep your work neat and it shows. =)
Natural Blonde Highlights Lowlights Demension
After - natural blonde highlights with dimension.
Golden Blonde Highlights Natural Demension
After - natural and shiny blonde highlights. 

Thursday, April 3, 2014

Ombré Before and After Pictures in Charlotte, NC

Just a quick note on ombré: this is not a "trend" that's going away. Yes, the whole dip-dyed, mega-drastic look is probably not the hippest thing at the moment, but the softer "sombré" look is still an every present fashion statement. Here's why: it looks good on pretty much everyone. As long as the tonality is right for your skin color, some sun-kissed highlights painted through the ends and around the face make everyone look younger. That's what happens to our hair when we're kids and we spend time playing in the sun.

Another reason that as a colorist I love an ombré look is because it grows out well and it's awesome for clients that you only see every 6 months. Even though I would love to see my clients every 6-8 weeks, if for no other reason to do a conditioning treatment or a gloss, it's nice to know that if you do a nice ombré or soft balayage that their color will still look good in six months. Below are a couple of examples of some clients that I transitioned into an ombré look. Some of these pictures you've seen before, but I wanted to use them for illustration.

Ombre hair color done by Autumn Lee located in Denver CO.
So this client is the perfect example for what I was talking about in terms of maintenance. This was the first time I did her hair and as you can see, she had about 4 months of regrowth. Naturally she was a level 4, and while she wanted to be more blonde, coming in every 4 weeks for a touch up was not possible. So we compromised on an ombré look. I used a level 5n on her regrowth to give a very soft warming effect, and painted a 5gold through the midshaft. I painted some brighter pieces through the ends, but her hair was already a bit compromised, so we could not lift it much. The result was a medium level of variation from root to end. She still has some of that blonde that she really wanted, but the regrowth will be much softer and prettier as it grows out. You can't really see it in the picture from this angle, but I also did a few highlights close to the root around the face. This helps to avoid that "too grown-out" look. 

Ombre hair color done naturally with highlights.
Here is another first time client. She had box color on her hair and wanted an ombré look, but did not want the upkeep of having a lighter base color. We simply add lowlights of her natural level and balayaged highlights through the midshafts and ends. Now she has soft, natural looking hightlights that will grow out very easily. 

Ombre blonde hair done for easy to maintain hair color and styles.
 Here is Celeste whom I've shown many times before. She loves to be blonde but her natural color is ashy and she has quite a few grays coming through around her face. She was getting highlights every 4-6 weeks to keep up with the contrast in her regrowth. We transitioned her to an ombré with a warm level 7 base. She still has to get her base color touched up every 6 weeks or so, but it is much faster than sitting through a partial or full foil and more economical.  

Ombre hair blonde color done to lighen hair style.
Here is one more example. The before picture is actually an in-between shot from a color correction. She was originally a level 4 permanent color all over, but naturally about a level 7. Working her into an ombré, while time consuming because of the color correction, actually worked out easily because her ends easily lifted up lighter. To maintain her color we do a very simple partial with a high-lift blonde and lowlights through the midshaft that are a little cooler to blend with her natural and a few balayaged highlights through the mids and ends.